The majority of the tools and equipment you will need for most installations are apparent. The following is a list of useful tools and miscellaneous materials that might also come in handy.

1. A complete set of nut drivers (spin-tights).

2. A set of ratchets and sockets.

3. A pocket compass, for orienting the antenna and setting up the rotor when the compass bearing(s) of the transmitter tower(s) is known.

4. A drill brace with a wide assortment of bits.

5. A good quality leather tool belt.

6. A crimping tool for fastening coaxial connectors.

7. Caulking compound for sealing the holes where transmission line enters the house.

8. Roofing tar (plastic roof cement), for sealing around screws on the roof.

9. Silicone grease for waterproofing coaxial cable connectors.

10. A sledge hammer for driving in ground rods.

11. A level or plumb bob for ensuring that the antenna mast is installed perpendicularly.

12. A map to aid antenna orientation. (Aircraft maps are ideal. Most airports sell them.)

13. A strong step ladder (in addition to extension ladders).

14. A magnetic stud finder.

15.A small, portable TV that operates on both standard house current (117 volts AC) and batteries.

Masts

Most antenna hardware catalogs list a wide variety of mounts and masts. Most however, are variations of a few basic types. By taking into account signal strength and ease of installation, it's not difficult deciding which site, mount, and hardware to use.

A mast (Figure 4-1) is used in every installation. The mast is the vertical tubing that supports the antenna. Conventional masts are available in 5 and 10 foot lengths. Telescoping mast units (Figure 4-2) are available in 20, 30, 40 and 50 foot lengths. Each type is available in various wall thicknesses that provide different degrees of strength and rigidity. Your choice will depend on the height, weight, and size of the antenna being installed and also on wind conditions in the area.

Both conventional and telescoping masts are available in galvanized steel and in high Tensile, acrylic-coated steel. Acrylic-coated masts are preferable because of their greater strength and durability.

MOUNTING SITES AND RELATED PROCEDURES

Attic Installations

An attic installation (Figure 4-3) may work in areas where strong signals are present. In most cases, an attic installation is the easiest, fastest, most economical, and most convenient installation. There are a few conditions however that can prohibit an attic installation. Shallow attics that are obstructed by rafter supports may not accommodate the size antenna required for the installation. Most attics are not large enough to accommodate multi-antenna arrays and rotors. Also, aluminum foil on insulation, aluminum or steel siding, metal gutters at the attic level, and metal lath under older plaster walls all can interfere to some degree with reception.

Fig. 4-3. A typical attic installatIon.

To determine if an attic installation is suitable, take a test antenna, a field-strength meter and a portable TV up into the attic and check the signal level and picture quality. If the signal level is sufficient and there is room enough to properly orient the antenna, assemble the antenna in the attic and attach one end of the transmission line to the antenna terminals. Then prepare the mount for the antenna.

Several roof Type mounting brackets (Figure 4-4) and swivel mounts (Figure 4-5) are adaptable for use in attic installations. The mounting bracket is used to attach the short mast to a rafter or rafter support. The antenna is then mounted on the other end of the mast. The antenna however, must not touch the attic floor. Also, remember that the antenna should be attached to the mast right side up, even though the installation appears to be the reverse of an outside installation.

Fig. 4-4. Fig. 4-5.

Examples of swivel mounts that can be used in attic installations.

An alternative method of mounting the mast is the flatten one end of the mast with a hammer and drill a hole in it through which a nail, screw, or bolt can be inserted for securing the mast to a rafter or rafter support. However, this method requires more time and effort than does the bracket method.

Instead of using a mast, you may suspend the antenna from the inside of the roof with guy wires or nylon rope. But don't let the guy wires touch the antenna elements. They will short out the antenna.

Once you have the antenna mounted or suspended, you are ready to run the transmission line. If at all   possible, keep it indoors. Coaxial cable (Figure 4-6) is  the best transmission line for any antenna installation. It should be used instead of twinlead even in attic installations. Selection and installation of the correct transmission line is described in the chapter beginning on page 15.

Fig. 4-6. CoaxIal cable, the preferred type of TV transmission line.

After you have run the transmission line, use a compass and field-strength meter to orient the antenna toward the signal source(s). Check the picture and sound on all channels before you tighten down the clamp that secures the antenna to the mast.

Some manufacturers make special antennas for attic installations. These antennas however, tend to be omni~directional. This means they intercept signals equally well from all directions. Consequently, they will also pick up interference more readily than a good directional antenna.

Chimney Mounts

Chimney Mounts (Figure 4~7) are used more frequently than other types of mounts, but they often are not the best option. Although they are relatively easy to install, the smoke and gases from a chimney can shorten the life of the antenna and significantly impair its performance.

A chimney installation is practical only if the chimney is sturdy and vertical. Never mount an antenna on a deteriorated chimney. During moderate too high winds an unguyed mast taller than 10 feet can exert enough leverage to break off an unstable chimney.

If you choose a chimney mount, use enough mast to place the antenna above most of the smoke and gases. However, to avoid overstressing the chimney,  do not mount the antenna more than 10 feet above the top of the chimney. If the height of the antenna must exceed 10' to receive satisfactory signals, the mast must be properly guyed. CYhe correct method of  installing guy wires is described in Chapter 7.)

Securing the chimney~mounted antenna and minimizing the stress on the chimney requires the mounting straps to be properly spaced. The top strap should be placed as high up on the chimney as possible. If the chimney has a crown or projecting cap, place the to strap directly under it. The bottom strap should be placed 4 feet below the top strap. If the chimney isn't long enough to permit this, place the bottom strap as far down on the chimney as possible. If the mast must be 10 feet above the chimney top, don't use a chimney mount unless you can space the straps at least 30 inches apart. For masts less than 10 feet above the chimney top, the straps should be spaced no less than 24 inches apart.

Be sure the straps are level, with no kinks or twists. The easiest way to level straps is to line them up along the nearest course of bricks. Straps should be centered on the bricks-not over the mortar joint. Pull each strap tight, line it up so that it's level, and then tighten it just enough to hold it in place.

Before the straps are tightened completely, fasten the mast to the mounting bracket. (1t is assumed that the antenna has already been clamped securely to the mast, and one end of the transmission line has been connected to the antenna terminals.) Align the mast so that it is vertical. Then completely tighten the mounting straps. Next, orient the antenna. Finally, tighten the clamps that hold the mast to the mounting. Be sure the clamps are tight enough to prevent the mast from being rotated by the wind load on the antenna.

Roof Mounts

There are two basic types of roof mounts: a base mount (Figure 4-8) and a tripod (Figure 4-9). Tripods are stronger and more rigid than base mounts, but they are also more expensive. When given a choice, use a tripod.

10 TOOLS, MASTS & HARDWARE REQUIREMENTS

However, if cost savings or limited space require it, a properly guyed base mount will usually work. Unlike a chimney mount, a base mount holds the mast at only one point, the bottom. Consequently, the mast also must be supported by guy wires, regardless of the mast length.

Correct installation of either type of roof mount requires great care and should not be attempted without a helper. Both types of mounts should be secured to the roof with either bolts or lag screws. These should be screwed into only solid wood like a rafter or a truss section. You can locate these with a stud finder.

If you must fasten the mount to the roof in an area where a bolt or screw cannot reach a rafter, send your assistant into the attic with a large square of wood 1-1/2" thick, to act as a backing plate. Have him hold this wood against the entry points of the screws or bolts so that the mount is firmly anchored in both the roof sheathing and the wooden block. This will give the mount needed stability.

When installing a base mount, attach the base plate to the roof in the manner lust described, and place the mast (with antenna, guy ring, and guy wires attached), into the U-bolt that has been fastened loosely to the mount. Do not let the bottom of the mast touch the roof; it may tear a hole in the shingles.

Since a base mount must be guyed, an easy way to raise the mast is to first fasten one of the guy wire screw eyes to the roof peak on the end of the roof opposite the direction in which the antenna is lying. Run the end of the guy wire through the screw eye. Have your assistant slowly raise the mast while you pull the guy wire through the screw eye (figure 4-10). When the mast is vertical, the guy wire you are holding will be approximately the right length for permanent installation. Temporarily secure this guy wire. Install the other guy wires while your helper holds the mast in a vertical position. Check the mast with a level as you tighten and permanently secure each wire. When the mast is vertical and each guy wire has been tightened, orient the antenna and firmly tighten the U-bolt (clamp) on the base mount.

Tripods, as noted earlier, are a stronger, more rigid type of roof mount. The most common tripod mounts are 3, 5, and 10 feet high. The 3 foot tripod is most commonly used. A tripod mount can be installed and leveled before the mast is inserted. It should always be mounted so that the antenna can be folded down along the peak of the roof. This will enable you to lower it more easily should repairs or adjustments become necessary in the future. Even though tripods are very stable, any tripod-mounted mast over 10 feet high should be guyed

Ensure the sturdiness of the tripod by anchoring. To protect the roof, use a pitch pad seal under each tripod leg (Figure 4-11). Coat all lag bolts with roofing tar or other sealant to prevent leaks around them. Roofing tar or silicone should be used liberally around all holes, bolts, screws, nails, and eye screws.

Wall Mounts

Many types of wall mount brackets are available. However, many of them are poorly made and will not withstand more than a moderate wind. Buy only the best quality wall mount brackets (Figure 4-12).

When installing a wall mount, space the brackets as far apart as possible (or practical). Generally, the farther apart you space the brackets, the stronger the installation will be. Be sure the brackets extend out from the wall far enough for the mast to clear the roof eaves. As with roof mounts, screw wall mount brackets only into solid wood, and use caulking or other durable sealant around screws.

Mounting from the Ground

Many times you will not want (or will not be able) to mount an antenna on the roof. One of the best alternatives to roof mounting is mounting from the ground (Figure 4-13). With a firm base support and one or more wall mount brackets, a ground mount installation is exceptionally sturdy and long lasting. A good ground mount may also eliminate the need of guy wires.

Correctly preparing the base of a ground mount is very important. The antenna mast should rest on something more solid and stable than just hare earth. If your installation site is on a solid deck or patio, the base is already prepared for you.

When you have to prepare the base yourself, dig a hold about 2 feet deep at the spot where the mast will contact the ground. Remember that the base hole must line up with the wall bracket(s) so that the mast will be vertical. A plumb line and bob suspended from the roof eave can be used to determine the correct positions of the base hole and wall brackets (Figure4-13). Use bricks or flat stones in the bottom of the hole as a footing to prevent the base of the mast from moving. Concrete can also be used as a footing but you'll have to wait for it to dry before you can put up the mast.

Once the base is prepared, mount a wall bracket at least 10 feet above the ground or as high as possible. Remember, the farther apart the wall brackets are placed, the sturdier the installation (figure 4-13). If there is 5 feet or more left between the first wall bracket and the roof eave, add another wall bracket. Be sure the base hole and the wall brackets line up so that the mast will be vertical. This can be determined easily by suspending a plumb bob and line from the roof eave into the base hole. Also remember that the wall bracket(s) must extend out from the wall far enough so that the mast clears the roof eaves. Be sure the screws of each wall bracket are anchored in solid wood. Screw them into the wall studs.

Firmly clamp the antenna to the upper end of the mast. Insert the mast into the base hole or rest it on the deck or patio. Vertically position the mast by "walking" it up hand over hand. Rest it against the wall bracket(s). Loosely fasten the mast to the wall bracket(s). After determining that the mast is truly perpendicular, tighten the bracket(s) a little more. Next, orient the antenna. After the antenna has been oriented, securely tighten the wall bracket clamps around the mast. Finally, if a base hole is being used, fill in the hole and firmly tamp the soil around the base of the mast.

Telescoping Masts

A telescoping mast (Figure 4-14) is used in installations for which standard 5 or 10 foot lengths of mast stacked together would not be sufficiently strong or rigid. A length of telescoping mast is stronger and more rigid than the same lengths made up of standard mast pieces stacked together. Because of their additional strength, some telescoping masts used with ground mounts can be extended up to 15 feet above the roof line without requiring guy wires. Another advantage of telescoping masts is that they can be easily adjusted to odd heights without having to cut the tubing.

Because telescoping masts are heavy and require firm bottom support, they should not be used with chimney or wall mounts. However, because ground and roof mounts do provide bottom support, telescoping masts can be used with these mounts to provide additional height.

For extra strength when installing large antennas, use a telescoping mast that is one size larger than actually needed. This will permit you to attach the antenna to the mast section immediately below the topmost one. This section is larger and stronger than the topmost section because it is reinforced by the 1-1/4" diameter section that remains inside.

When installing telescoping masts 20 feet or shorter in length, lay the mast on the ground and extend it to the desired length. Prop up the small end on a stable support and attach the antenna and transmission line. Then connect the bottom of the mast to the base mount and walk up the mast to its vertical position. (Use a base mount that will swivel!)

For masts over 20 feet long, securely mount and guy the bottom section first. Then attach guy rings and wires to the rest of the sections. Mount the antenna on the upper section, secure its guy ring and the transmission line. Using a person to hold the guy wires to each anchor point, raise each section one at a time, starting with the top. Tighten the wires after the mast is fully extended.

Vent Pipe Mounting

Vent pipe mounting (Figure 4-16) secures the antenna and mast to the plumbing (gas) vent that comes up through the roof of the house. This type of mounting should be used only for the smallest antennas, and then only when economy absolutely demands it. Vent pipe mounts are not sturdy enough for medium and large antennas. Even a moderate wind or ice load may ruin the installation and damage your customer's property.

Standard vent pipe mounting hardware is available. However, it should be used with great care. Most vent pipes are made of soft materials like copper or orangeburg, which are easily crushed or dented by the stress exerted by the mounting bracket.

Towers

Antennas are mounted on towers (Figure 4-17) when exceptional height (35 feet or more) is required for adequate reception or when an unusually large antenna array must be used. Although they are very sturdy installations if properly installed, towers can be very difficult and dangerous to erect. Tower manufacturers' instructions and specifications usually include a large number of warnings and precautions that must be strictly followed. The best advice that can be given about tower installations before attempting one of your own, is to work with an experienced tower installer on one or more installations. If possible, have an experienced installer assist you with your first tower installation. If you do find yourself involved in a tower installation, be prepared for some heavy work and for the possibility of having to climb well above the height of the average roof.

If you must climb a tower, use an attachable work platform with a safety ring and safety belt. These are available from some tower manufactures. CAUTION: Before climbing any tower, first check the condition of the structure and the guy wires to make sure the installation is safe. Even a newly installed tower may have defects that make it dangerous to climb.

In most cases, a properly guyed 40 or 50 foot telescoping mast can be substituted for a 40 to 50 foot tower installation. It is not only easier and less dangerous to install, it is also significantly less expensive. A detailed discussion about the various types of towers and the procedures for installing each of them would require more space than is available in this manual. The most accurate and helpful sources for such information is the extremely detailed instructions that most tower manufacturers provide with their towers.

1. Step 1

   Removing the door panel: On a sunny day with mild temperatures, purpose to "fix that sucker", and do it expediently. Sliding glass doors are heavy and awkward, so get some help to remove the panels if you need. Usually, the operable panel of a sliding glass door will come out on the inside of the structure. Sometimes there will be sag in the header above the unit, so it may be necessary to remove the fixed panel from the outside first. Take your small Phillips screw driver and find the roller adjustment holes at the bottom of the door. Insert the tool into the hole and engage the roller screw. Lower the door down as much as possible, by doing forward and back rollers. Now try to lift the door up and swing the bottom into the room to remove the door.

2. Step 2
   
   Removing the old roller

   Removing the rollers: Rest your door on it's edge, and locate the roller adjustment hole. JUST ABOVE that hole is another hole. This is the hole that has a frame/roller screw in it. You must completely remove this screw to remove the old roller.( Be careful not to separate the frame from the glass when doing this procedure)Use the large Phillips screw driver to remove this screw. Pry out the old roller. Secure the door.

3. Step 3
   
   Like for Like

   Go shopping: VERY IMPORTANT; TAKE THE OLD ROLLER TO THE HARDWARE STORE. You must get the identical roller. Examine the new roller and match it in every way to the old. Double check by getting a clerk. BUY TWO ROLLERS. Save money by NOT making a return trip.

4. Step 4
   
   You must thouroughly clean the track

   Installing new rollers: Insert the new roller in the frame you disassembled, and screw it back together. Flip the door over and do the other side. Put the door aside and prepare the sliding glass door frame track.

5. Step 5
   
   You won't believe how much goock is in there!

   Cleaning the track: Lay paper towels on your carpet to protect it. Vacuum and brush out the track all the way across. Now spray the roller track with the WD-40 and let it soak in. Wear safety glasses and use the tooth picks to gouge out all the dead bugs, leaves, dog hair, alligators, and rhinoceroses out of the track. And stay at it until you can see shiny aluminum at the very bottom of the crevice. Use toilet paper or more paper towels to mop up the sludge.

6. Step 6

   Re-installing the door: Bring over your door and put it back in. First insert it in at the top, and then swing the bottom into place and down onto the track. Use the small Phillips screw driver to adjust the new rollers. Slide the door over to the closed position, but leave a 1/4" gap top to bottom. Adjust the rollers so the gap is parallel to the frame vertically. Congratulations, your door slides very nicely now, and you can say, "I did it myself"! Thanks to Ken Swanson

7. Step 7
   
   Removing the lock screws

   Optional Extraction: Sometimes lodged doors have to be removed from the outside. Even to the point of grinding off the screen guide. To do the panel extraction, remove the top and bottom fixed center screws on the fixed panel.(see picture)Pull the fixed panel out of the side frame, lift the panel up, and swing the bottom out and away, and take out the fixed panel. Now the operable panel will swing outside and be removed.

Good Video:  roof vent:  www.youtube.com/watch eave vent:  www.youtube.com/watch VENTILATION BASICS Proper attic ventilation is an important part of a healthy home–both for the structure and its occupants. This document explains how attic ventilation protects a home from moisture and how to install vents that will keep your home in good condition. There are a wide variety of sources of moisture in a home, from the building materials themselves to normal everyday activities. Cooking, bathing and washing clothes all release gallons of water vapor into the air, for example. That vapor isn't a problem inside the average home because the temperature inside the home is warmer than outside for much of the year. Warm air holds more moisture–in the form of water vapor–than cool air. The problem is that vapor gradually works its way out of the living area and into the structure. As warm, moist air cools, the vapor begins to condense into water droplets. If that happens inside an unfinished attic, for example, it can get insulation and framing materials wet. That not only reduces the value of your insulation but can cause mold, mildew and rot. During the summer, when the outside temperature is typically much higher than the inside temperature, attic ventilation serves a different purpose. An unfinished attic builds up a tremendous amount of heat, and if that heated air has no place to escape, it can make the inside of the house much warmer or cause an air conditioning system to work much harder to cool the house. Building codes specify the minimum amount of attic ventilation needed in a new home to prevent winter moisture buildup, but your summer needs are much greater. Also, older homes were often built with inadequate attic ventilation–at least by today's standards–and may need to be retrofitted with proper attic ventilation. A good attic ventilation system is designed for summer needs. It includes two types of vents: intake vents are placed along the soffit to allow fresh air into the attic, and exhaust vents are installed in the upper third of the roof to allow attic air to escape. The object is to create a continuous "wash" of air along the underside of the roof sheathing. The rule of thumb in the summer is that you should provide enough ventilation to completely change the air in your attic every six minutes. There are three common types of intake vents: Gable vents are triangular vents installed in the gable wall just below the peak of the roof. As a rule, gable vents are the least effective type of vent, because air circulates only near the gables and does not wash the entire roof. Static vents, also known as roof line or eyebrow vents, consist of a sheet metal cylinder with a flashing collar and a metal hood to keep rain out. They are installed in rows along the face of the roof by cutting holes in the roof, nailing the flashing collars to the roof sheathing and shingling around the vents. Their effectiveness depends on how many are installed; probably their greatest disadvantage is that like any roof penetration, they may leak. Soffit vents are made usually with a screen to keep insects out and of an aluminum panel with louvers punched into the face to allow air flow. They may be 4" or 8" wide and 14" or 22" long, so they'll fit between 16" and 24" on center rafters. They are installed simply by cutting rectangular holes in the soffit and screwing the vent over the hole. A continuous soffit vent is of similar construction, 4" wide and 96" long. It is installed by cutting a long slot in the soffit and screwing the vent over the hole. Circular vents range from 1" to 8" in diameter. They are installed by drilling holes in the soffit and pressing the vent into the hole. Exhaust vents fall into two basic categories. Static vents simply allow air to escape while power ventilators actively suck air out of the attic. Within each category there are a number of types: Ridge vents are installed along the peak of the roof and replace the ridge singles. Power Ventilators are turbine vents that consist of a turbine mounted on a sheet metal cylinder. They are installed like roof line vents along the face of the roof. When the wind blows, it spins the turbine, which in turn draws air up out of the attic. Their effectiveness, naturally, depends on whether the wind is blowing or not. Fan-driven ventilators are powered by electricity and usually controlled by a thermostat in the attic. They are very effective, but since they are motor-driven, the extra cost of running them partially offsets the energy they conserve. Most builders agree that a ridge vent system is the most effective as well as the most cost-effective. The number of vents you'll need depends on the type and size of the vents. Vents are rated according to their square inches of "free vent area" (FVA)–in other words, the amount of open space in the vent. You can't just measure the size of the vent to find the FVA because the open space is reduced by louvers and by the screen mesh that covers the opening. Most manufacturers provide both FVA ratings and ventilation recommendations for their products. In order to estimate, you'll need to know the total square footage of your attic and possibly the slope of your roof. To find the square footage of your attic, multiply the width of your house by the length. Roof slope is expressed as a ratio–for example, a 5:12 slope means that the roof rises 5" vertically for every 12" of horizontal distance. To find the approximate slope of your roof, go into the attic and measure the vertical distance from the peak of the attic ceiling to the ceiling joists in feet (e.g., a 75" measurement would be 6-1/4'). Multiply that measurement by 24, then divide the result by the width of your house (also in feet). The answer is the first half of your slope ratio. For example, say your house is 30' wide, and the peak-to-ceiling-joist measurement is 75" (6-1/4'): 6-1/4 x 24 = 150 150 divided by 30 = 5 Your slope is approximately 5:12

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INSTALLING ATTIC VENTS Installing attic vents in an existing roof is a relatively simple job that most do-it-yourselfers can handle. Remember to follow basic safety procedures when working on the roof: Wear loose clothing and rubber-soled shoes with good ankle support. Only work on the roof in dry, calm weather. Be alert for slippery or loose shingles or rotten decking that you might put a foot through. Avoid power lines and TV antennas. Keep children and pets away from the area so they aren't hurt if something falls off the roof. Your extension ladder should be angled so the base is away from the wall a distance equal to 1/4 of the ladder's length plus the width of the soffit. Intake Vents–To install intake vents, set your circular saw blade to a depth about 1/8" greater than the thickness of the soffit (soffit materials are usually 1/4" thick). Lay out the location of the vent between the rafters, then cut the hole with the circular saw. Screw the vent to the soffit, covering the hole. If you have fiberglass blanket insulation in your attic, make sure the blankets are positioned so they cover the top of the exterior wall but still allow at least a 1" space between the top of the insulation and the underside of the roof sheathing. Otherwise, the insulation will block the air flow and your soffit vents will be useless. If you have loose fill insulation in your attic, you'll need to install baffles in each rafter cavity that contains a soffit vent to keep the air space clear. Roof Line/Turbine Vents–To install roof line or turbine vents, first locate the vent between two rafters. Use a utility knife to cut away the shingles and felt paper, then use a saber saw to cut a hole in the roof the same size as the throat of the vent. Butter the inside of the vent base with plastic roof cement, then slip the base into position over the hole. The top of the flashing should be slipped under the shingles above the hole and lap over them below the hole. Nail the base in place with 1-1/2" galvanized roofing nails and cover the nail heads with roof cement. If you're installing a turbine vent, slip the turbine onto the base and level it. Fasten the turbine in place with sheet metal screws. Gable Vent–To install a gable vent, cut away the siding and sheathing with a circular saw. Be careful not to cut too deeply into the gable studs. Caulk the rim of the gable vent, then set it over the hole and fasten it in place with screws. Ridge Vent–To install a ridge vent, first remove the ridge shingles as specified by the vent manufacturer–usually to within 6" of the end of the ridge or a foot from a chimney or roof intersection. Cut away the felt paper with a utility knife and pull out all staples and roofing nails. Snap a chalk line along the roof sheathing on either side of the ridge; the manufacturer's instructions will tell you how far from the peak the line should be. Set your circular saw blade to a depth slightly thicker than the sheathing, then cut away the sheathing along the line. Remove the cut pieces of sheathing and any nails that remain. Install the ridge vent over the peak. You can start the vent at the end of the roof or the beginning of the slot, whichever the manufacturer recommends. Different ridge vent systems use different methods of making the vent weather-tight; follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Click on drawing above to view animation.

TOOL AND MATERIAL CHECKLIST

• Intake Vents
• Steel Tape Measure
• Utility Knife
• Screwdriver
• Saber Saw
• Putty Knife
• Pencil
• Screws
• Ladder
• Exhaust Vents
• Level
• Hammer
• Circular Saw
• Plastic Roof Cement
• Chalk Line
• Nails
• Eye Protection

How to replace Flyscreen Mesh

This handyman hint explains how to replace the mesh in a flyscreen door.

To replace the mesh in your flyscreen doors and windows, start by measuring the height then the width of the flyscreen you wish to replace.  You will need a minimum of 75mm to 100mm (3 to 4 inches) extra all round.  Write these measurements down and take them to your local hardware store.  Meshing is sold in widths of 900mm (about 3 feet) and 1200mm (about 4 feet).

When you get home again, remove the screen by lifting and then twisting one corner out, then slide the screen out completely.  Remove the rubber tubing that holds the mesh into the frame by prying up at the join,  pull gently until it comes free. Now you can remove the old mesh and dispose of in the rubbish bin.

 Lay the new mesh over the screen door and then push the rubber tubing into the slot at one corner, on the longest side of your screen.  You can purchase a wheel at the hardware store for this job. Alternatively, you can use a small piece of timber dowel or the handle of an old dinner knife with a very blunt blade.  Holding it at an angle to the mesh and apply downward pressure.  

Continue down one side until finished.   I find it best to then do the opposite side to the first.  Don’t pull the mesh too tight, as the mesh is tightened as it is forced into the groove by the tubing.  Watch that the mesh is kept straight, that is, the weave in the mesh is parallel to the screen. 

Then you can proceed to the top edge and finally the bottom edge; again do not pull the mesh too tight.  Let the tubing do this for you.  Now trim off the excess mesh very CAREFULLY, using a sharp knife. 

When you have finished put the screen back into place one corner first then wiggle the screen into place. 

Hey, that wasn’t so bad was it?  Remember that practice makes perfect.

DIY guide of installing a Netafim Smart Drip System 点击下载此文件  , a bit too simple.

Designing an Irrigation System  seems pretty good.

Telephone Plugs and Sockets for Australia

>> Telephone Plugs and Sockets for Australia

Introduction

There are currently three different types of line termination connectors used in Australia for telephone and data use.

Definitions

This series is what is commonly called the "old Australian type" and has been installed in Australia, primarily by Telstra, for approximately 30 years. There is a huge installed base of this type of connector.

This type of connector has been installed in Australia for a period of approximately 5 years, originally developed in the USA by Bell Labs (the same Bell that invented the telephone) by engineers Charles Krumreich and Edwin Hardesty, it has now become the most widely used telephone connector in the world. You will see it is used in the connection port for most telephones, faxes etc.

This connector is quite often misnamed, however in Australia it is commonly called the RJ12. In the USA it is called RJ11 or RJ14, depending on wiring configuration. RJ12 can used to connect a maximum of 6 wires.

RJ stands for "registered jack" - not Ross Jackson, our MD, as many people think !

This connector is an evolution of the RJ12, having a wider body to allow 8 wires to be connected. Telstra and Optus, amongst others, are installing this connector into homes and offices across Australia.

It cannot be plugged into a RJ12 socket, however, a RJ12 can be plugged into a RJ45 socket, using a reducing sleeve.

Australian 600 Series Details

How to install

Loosen screw "A" and remove the cover.

Remove screw "B" and withdraw the plug.

Replace screw "B" and make sure it sits flush. If the screw is too long replace it.

Replace cover and tighten screw "A"

RJ12 and RJ45 Series Details

Any of the series of jacks, described in the

, Title 47,

, used to provide

to the public

RJ (registered jacks, sometimes described as RJ-XX) are a series of telephone connection interfaces (receptacle and plug) that are registered with the U.S. Federal Communications Commission (FCC). They derive from interfaces that were part of AT&T's Universal Service order Codes (USOC) and were adopted as part of FCC regulations. The term jack in the USA sometimes means both receptacle and plug and sometimes just the receptacle, although in Australia it means socket. A plug is male and a socket is female.

This plug and socket combination is not used for wall termination. It is the very small connectors used to connect your telephone to the handset..

As mentioned above, the most common telephone connector in the world is the RJ-12 jack, which can have six conductors but usually is implemented with four or sometimes two. The RJ-12 jack is likely to be a socket that your household or office phones are plugged into. In turn, these sockets connect to the outside longer wires known as twisted pair, which run to the telephone companies switch or to a private branch exchange (PABX). The four wires are usually characterised as a red and green pair and a black and white pair. The red and green pair typically carry voice or data. On an outside phone company connection, the black and white pair may be used for Iow-voltage signals such as phone lights. On a PBX system, they may be used for other kinds of signalling.Your computer modem is usually connected to a RJ-12 jack.

6 position / 4 contact modular plugs
Plug positions	USOC RJ14	USOC RJ11
1
2	white/orange
3	blue/white	blue/white
4	white/blue	white/blue
5	orange/white
6

6 position / 6 contact modular plugs
Plug positions	USOC RJ25
1	white/green
2	white/orange
3	blue/white
4	white/blue
5	orange/white
6	green/white

As mentioned above, Telstra and Optus are now installing this type of socket in homes. The RJ-45 is a single-line jack for digital transmission over ordinary phone wire, either untwisted or twisted. The interface has eight pins or positions. For connecting a modem, printer, or a data PABX at a data rate up to 19.2Kbps, you can use untwisted wire. For faster transmissions in which you're connecting to an Ethernet 10/100/1000BaseT network, you need to use twisted pair wire. (Untwisted is usually a flat wire like common household phone extension wire. Twisted is often round.).

RJ45 is also called Category 5 or "Cat 5" in Australia, which refers to a specification for data transmission. Cat 5 or RJ45 are physically compatible, and both are suitable for telephones or modems depending on data rate requirements.

8 position modular plugs
Plug positions	T568A	T568B
1	white/green	white/orange
2	green	orange
3	white/orange	white/green
4	blue	blue
5	white/blue	white/blue
6	orange	green
7	white/brown	white/brown
8	brown	brown

A new home for chooks so they don't fly the coop.

DIAGRAM点击下载此文件

Fresh are the best! And they taste even better when they've been laid by happy chooks in your own backyard. This A-frame chicken coop can be moved about your yard quite easily and will keep your hens feeling clucky, safe and right at home.

A chicken coop that can be lifted and moved around the garden is a great way to fertilise the yard while the chickens enjoy a feast of bugs, pests and weeds. The coop has everything that opens and shuts to lock away your chooks at night plus give you easy access to collect eggs.

Chooks are great pets to keep around the home: they eat food scraps, produce fantastic natural fertiliser, keep pests down in your garden and lay eggs.

Kids also love feeding them, hunting for their eggs and playing with them. This simple, moveable chicken coop is a great way to house your birds and is large enough to accommodate up to six full-sized chooks or eight bantams.

Hens need a home, especially during the night to keep them safe from foxes and domestic animals, which will kill your birds if they're not locked away. This coop has wire on the floor to stop predators from digging their way into it. However, during the day, chickens are much happier to scratch around the backyard looking for worms, insects, weeds and whatever else they can find to eat. Just make sure the backyard is enclosed and the flight feathers on the hens are clipped.

But before you rush out and buy half-a-dozen hens or build a chook house, check your local council's regulations and requirements for keeping poultry. Some discourage keeping chooks, others ban roosters. It's also a good idea to chat with your neighbours before proceeding. Whatever the result, keeping a rooster will probably be out of the question because early morning wake-up calls do not make for happy neighbours. Besides, you probably want to eat the eggs, not breed chickens.

You'll need
(See diagram)

A Frame uprights (8) 70 x 35 x 1220mmTreated pine

B Narrow ties (4) 70 x 22 x 635mm Treated pine decking 81 Wide ties (2) 90 x 22 x 635mm Treated pine decking

C End panels (2) 635 x 628 x 4mm Bracing ply

D Gussets (2) 310 x 263 x 4mm Bracing ply

E Ridge 90 x 22 x 1800mm Treated pine decking

F Bottom plates (2) 90 x 45 x 1800mm Treated pine

G Side rails (4) 70 x 22 x 422mm Treated pine decking

H Back panel 1800 x 616 x 4mm Bracing ply

I Handles (2) 90 x 45 x 2400mm Treated pine

J Box slats (12) 90 x 22 x 330mm Treated pine decking

K Back panel support 70 x 22 x 1000mm Treated pine decking

L Bottom end rails (2) 90 x 45 x 1100mm Treated pine

M Small door stiles (2) 42 x 18 x 515mm LOSP pine N Small door rails (2) 42 x 18 x 296mm LOSP pine

O Small door panel 515 x 380 x 4mm Bracing ply

P Large door stiles (2) 42 x 18 x 515mm LOSP pine

Q Large door rails (2) 42 x 18 x 946mm LOSP pine

R Large door mullion 42 x 18 x 431 mm LOSP pine

S Large door panel 1030 x 515 x 4mm Bracing ply

T Bottom stiles (2) 42 x 18 x 500mm LOSP pine

U Bottom door rail (2) 42 x 18 x 296mm LOSP pine

V Hinge blocks (6) 40 x 19 x 90mm LOSP pine

W Small end rails (2) 70 x45x481mmTreated pine

X Perch (not shown) 90 x 22 x 1115mmTreated pine decking

You'll also need:
10m x 1200mm of galvanised 25 x 25 x 1.25mm welded mesh; galvanised staples or U nails; 2 x T-hinges; 6 x 50mm strap hinges; 4 latches; feeder, water dispenser, paint

STEP 1
Cut 1 end of each of the main framing uprights (A) at an angle of 65 degrees. To do this, use a protractor to set a sliding bevel to exactly 65 degrees. Mark the angle. Measure 1192mm along the timber, mark the same 65 degrees angle with the bevel and cut to length. Measure 25mm across the top bevel of each upright, square a line down from this point to form a right angle and then cut off the triangular section.

Chickens are safe and fun pets, and are great for teaching children responsibility.

STEP 2
Screw together pairs of uprights to form A-frames. Cut both ends of the narrow and wide ties (B, B1) at an angle of 65 degrees. Mark 499mm from the bottom of each upright and screw 2 narrow ties to 2 of the frames and the 2 wide ties to the other 2 frames with the bottom edge of the ties on the marks. Screw the remaining narrow ties to the back of the 2 frames with the wide ties.

STEP 3

Use the A-frames as a template to mark out the end panels (C) and cut with a panel saw. Unscrew the narrow ties, and nail on the plywood with flat head nails. Replace the ties again and nail panel into the tie. Similarly, cut the gussets (D) for the internal frames and nail on.

STEP 4
Screw the top ridge (E) to the end frames, with the back edge 5mm proud of the top of the frame and overhanging on the door side. The plywood end panels face inward. Measure 400mm from the end and screw on the intermediate A-frames with the plywood gussets facing towards the ends and the inside edge of the frames on the mark. Screw the outer A-frames to the bottom plates (F), then measure 400mm from ends to locate the intermediate frames.

STEP 5

Fix the side rails (G) to the A-frames, screwing them at the same height as the ties in the A-frame. Nail the back panel (H) to the frame, then add the two handles (I) to either side.

STEP 6

Turn the unit on its side and add the brooding box slats (J), screwing them on from the underside and spacing them equally between the sides. The gaps between the slats allow air to circulate. While tipped over, add the back panel support batten (K) under the ridge and nail the back panel to it. Cut the bottom rails (L) with a 65 degree angle at each end and screw to the bottom plates and end A-frames.

STEP 7

To retrieve the eggs, you'll need doors. Screw the small door stiles (M) to the rails (N) using simple butt joints and screws, then nail on the small door panel (O. If you do not have short nails simply nip the ends off 30mm galvanised flat-head nails. Repeat for the other small door and the large door (F Q, R, S). The bottom door (T, U) is made in the same way but covered with chicken wire not plywood. Fit the doors with the strap hinges, using hinge blocks (V) on the upper doors to give them clearance. When everything fits, remove the hinges. Cut the small end rails (W) and screw in place. Add a perch (X) screwed to the underside of the box slats.

STEP 8
Paint all the woodwork with two coats of exterior acrylic paint. We chose Dulux Pesto for the frame and Salvia for the panels. When dry, refit the doors with the hinges.

STEP 9
Cut the mesh to size with snips to suit each section and with enough extra all round to allow the wire to be stapled to the frame. Use galvanised staples or U nails to hold the wire mesh in place. When starting them off, try holding the staples with long-nosed pliers rather than your fingers.

STEP 10

At the sides remove the side rails and fix the wire underneath before refitting the rails over the top. Fold and nail the wire to the underside of the handles. At the ends remove the bottom rail and nail the wire to the inside edge of the bottom rail, then screw the bottom rail back in place and nail the wire to the rest of the frame. Fit basic catches to the doors to secure them at night.

Now you have a chookhouse, you want to know what chickens to buy, where to buy them and how to keep them.

For eggs within a week or so then purchase point-of-lay pullets that are about six months old. Avoid buying chicks - they may grow up to be roosters. Pullets cost about $20 each and lay between 180 and 250 eggs a year.

When you get your hens home, keep them in the coop for a week to get them used to their new home. Then let them range, but make sure your garden is bait free.

In the hens' brooding boxes, lay carpet offcuts, pile side down, and top with straw. This will keep your chooks comfortable while nesting and the eggs safe from smashing. Put a fake plastic or china egg in the nest to encourage the chooks to lay.

Feed the chickens with commercial layer pellets, which have all the vitamins and minerals hens need, and put the pellets in a bird feeder hung away from brooding boxes and perches. An adult hen will eat about 1 kg of food each week, including household food waste. Sprinkle eggshells over your scraps to give the chooks the calcium they need for strong eggs.

Install an automatic waterer away from the feeder.

Check the coop daily, and keep the water, food, perches and straw clean to avoid disease and parasites.

For MORE information on keeping hens, visit www.users.on.net/~greggles/

To buy chooks and pullets, check out Poultry Farmers and Dealers in the Yellow Pages.

Want something bigger? Click here for an even larger chicken house!

A Nest of Crickets-Diagram
Lowboys, stools or crickets—whatever you call them, these stands are amazingly strong and versatile. There are four separate lengths for the tops and sides for four different-sized lowboys. You can make all four “boys” out of one sheet of 3/4-in. plywood. The progressively larger sizes allow them to nest for storage, making them perfect for a cramped shop. The 16-in. height is just right for large work that might not fit on normal sawhorses.

Build An Easy Workbench

Click to enlarge
 

Sooner or later every homeowner starts compiling a list of repair or maintenance tasks that need attention. It doesn't matter if your home is new or old, urban or suburban. It just goes with the territory. And, if you're like many folks, you don't have to wait until a problem appears to feel the need to get your hands dirty. Projects just seem to call out to some people, luring them with the promise of distraction and the satisfaction of a job well-done. Whatever your motivation, there's no question that you'll need a place to face those challenges, and the logical place is a workbench. We've designed a multipurpose bench that you can put together in the course of a pleasant weekend. The materials are readily available at any reasonably stocked lumberyard or home center, and they won't cost you a week's salary.

Click to Enlarge

MATERIALS LIST--WORKBENCH Key No. Size and description (use) A 1 3/4 x 22-1/2 x 58-1/2” plywood (top) B 2 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 60” pine (edging) C 2 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 22-1/2” pine (edging) D 4 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 57-1/2” pine (long rail) E 4 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 18-1/2” pine (side rail) F 4 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 33-1/4” pine (leg) G 1 3/4 x 21-1/2 x 54-1/2” plywood (shelf) H 2 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 14-1/2” pine (edging) I 1 3/4 x 18 x 21-1/2” plywood (drawer bottom) J 1 3/4 x 4-1/4 x 16-1/2” plywood (drawer back) K 2 3/4 x 4-1/4 x 21-1/2” plywood (drawer side) L 1 3/4 x 4-1/4 x 16-1/2” plywood (drawer front) M 1 3/4 x 7-1/2 x 25-5/8” pine (drawer face) N 1 Drawer pull (see text) O 2 3/4 x 3 x 21-1/2” plywood (support cleat) P 2 3/4 x 5-1/8 x 21-1/2” plywood (support side) Q 1 3/4 x 19-5/8 x 21-1/2” plywood (support bottom) R 16 3/8 x 3” lagscrew, washer S 16 3/8 x 3-1/2” machine bolt, nut, washer

Furthermore, the bench will provide you with a generous top surface, a wide storage shelf and a utility drawer that all fit in a 24 x 60-in. footprint. It's a rare basement or garage that can't yield that much space. For additional usefulness, you can mount a vise to the benchtop.

Materials Shopping
The basic materials list consists of a 4 x 8 sheet of 3/4-in. plywood, five 2 x 4 x 8 studs, four 1 x 2 x 8 pieces of No. 2-grade pine, and one short piece of 1 x 8 pine for the drawer face. You'll also need bolts, lagscrews, finish nails, assembly screws and a drawer pull. In most markets, you can expect to spend less than $75 to build the bench (excluding the cost of a vise).

When you visit the lumberyard, try to select flat and straight 2 x 4 stock for the bench. You also have the option of selecting the grade and species of plywood. The least expensive choice would be construction-grade material, most commonly fir in a C/D or B/C grade. For a rough worktop, either will suffice. However, if you want a more finished look or a smoother surface, you can use a plywood with hardwood veneers or an A/C-grade fir plywood.

Making The Bench Parts
Begin by laying out the leg and rail cuts on 2 x 4 stock. You will be able to get one leg and one long rail from each 8-ft. 2 x 4, and all of the short rails from the remaining stud. Use a circular saw to crosscut the parts. To ensure square cuts, use a speed square to guide the saw (Fig. 1).

Next, lay out the notches for the long rails on the bench legs. Clamp a leg to a pair of sawhorses with the top end hanging free, then make the rip cut for the top notch (Fig. 2). Stop the saw when the blade reaches the mark for the bottom of the notch. Use a handsaw to complete the cut (Fig. 3). Turn the leg on its edge and clamp it to the sawhorses. Then use the saw to make the crosscut, freeing the waste from the notch (Fig. 4).

With the leg still supported on its edge, make a series of parallel cuts about 1/4 in. apart for the lower rail notch (Fig. 5). Then support the leg on a piece of scrap wood, and use a sharp chisel to chop out the waste (Fig. 6).

To crosscut a workpiece, mark a line across it, then hold a square to its edge. Run a circular saw along the square.

 

Mark lines for a notch cut. Clamp the workpiece to a sawhorse, then make the long cut with a circular saw.

 

The circular saw will leave a portion of uncut wood at the bottom of the long cut. Finish the cut using a handsaw.

 

Clamp the workpiece vertically. Complete the notch cut with the circular saw. Cut on the waste side of the line.

 

For a U-shaped notch, clamp the workpiece vertically and make a series of kerf cuts spaced about 1/4 in. apart.

 

Finish the notch by clamping the workpiece horizontally on a piece of scrap lumber. Cut out the waste with a chisel.

 

Take two side rails and clamp them to a pair of legs. Bore one 3/8-in.-dia. pilot hole through each joint, and install a bolt and nut to join the parts (Figs. 7 and 8). Be sure to use washers on both sides of the joint. Leave the bolts loose so you can adjust the joints. Compare the opposite diagonal measurements of the side assembly to check that it is square (Fig. 9). The meas-urements should be identical. Make any necessary adjustments, then tighten the bolts. Bore the second pilot hole in each joint, and install the rest of the bolts.

Clamp a top rail to the two side assemblies, and bore a pilot hole for a lagscrew in each joint. Press a lagscrew into position (Fig. 10). Firmly drive the screw, then remove the clamp and bore the second pilot hole for the second lagscrew. Follow the same procedure to install the rest of the rails. Use an open-end or ratchet wrench to tighten the lagscrews, but do not overtighten them.

Next, lay out the required parts on the sheet of 3/4-in. plywood. You should be able to get the top, shelf, drawer and support assembly parts from one sheet. Cut the parts to size using a circular saw guided by a straight piece of lumber clamped to the sheet (Fig. 11).

Place the bottom shelf in position on the bottom rails, and adjust it so that its edges are flush to the outside rail surfaces. Then place the bench top panel in place, and temporarily clamp the shelf and top in position. Use a combination drill bit/countersink to bore pilot holes in the shelf and top, then drive screws to fasten them in place (Figs. 12 and 13). If you wish, you can fill the screwholes with wood putty. When it dries, sand it flush.

The bench's edging consists of 1 x 2 pine. Test fit each piece first, then fasten with 6d finish nails driven into the plywood (Fig. 14).

Clamp together all pieces that are to be bolted together. Mark bolt positions and bore the first bolt hole on the mark.

 

Use a washer under the bolt head and another under the nut. Bolt the pieces together, but don't tighten the bolt.

 

Check rail-leg assembly for square. Adjust as needed, then tighten bolts. Bore second bolt hole at each joint.

 

Install and tighten the first lagscrew. Bore the next hole, and drive the second lagscrew. Use a washer with each screw.

 

Rip and crosscut the plywood parts. Clamp a straightedge to the panel and run the saw along it.

 

Use a combination drill/countersink to bore holes in the top and shelf. Clamp these parts in position during this step.

 

Attach the top and shelf using screws driven into each pilot hole. The top of each screw is driven flush to the surface.

 

Crosscut the bench edging. Test fit each piece, then attach with finish nails. Countersink each nailhead.

 

Drawer Construction
Bore and countersink appropriate pilot holes in the drawer parts, and screw the drawer box together (Fig. 15). Next, fasten the bottom panel to the drawer box (Fig. 16). Cut the drawer face to length, and fasten it to the front of the drawer box with 1-1/4-in. screws (Fig. 17). We used a bin-style drawer pull (No. 64BP20P from White Chapel, P.O. Box 11719, Jackson, WY 83002; 800-468-5534). For this, or any other surface-mounted pull, bore the appropriate pilot holes, and fasten the pull with screws.

Assemble the drawer support shelf from the remaining plywood parts. It is easiest to clamp the parts together before you bore the pilot holes and drive the screws--especially when you attach the support cleats to the drawer support sides (Fig. 18). Clamp the assembly to the front and back rails, then fasten it with 2-in. No. 8 screws (Fig. 19). Slide the drawer into position on the bench.

For many projects, it is extremely useful to have a vise to hold a workpiece. If you decide to mount one on your bench, position it so that at least two of the mounting holes are directly above the 2 x 4 rails. Mark the hole positions, and bore the pilot holes. Use lagscrews to mount the vise (Fig. 20).

Rip and crosscut each piece of the drawer box, and bore pilot holes where needed. Assemble the box with screws.

 

Cut the drawer bottom to size and bore pilot holes. Attach the bottom to the drawer box with screws.

 

Bore holes through the drawer box's front into the drawer face. Attach the drawer face to the box with screws.

 

Assemble the drawer support. Clamp each support cleat in position, and fasten it to the support with screws.

 

Clamp the drawer support cleats in place. Bore pilot holes, and drive screws to attach the cleats to the rails.

 

Place a vise in position on the benchtop, bore its mounting holes, then attach the vise to the top using lagscrews.

 

by Garrett Lambert

Like many woodworkers, I suffered from bench envy. I can't count the number of articles and plans I collected, but almost every one was a variation of the traditional joiner's bench with wooden shoulder and tail vises. Nevertheless, I continued to dither rather than build.

Why was I still using my MDF-topped-kitchen-base-cupboard bench that I'd quickly thrown together when we'd moved into a new home? Because sub-consciously I knew that what I wanted wasn't what I needed. In truth, the joiner's bench isn't the most suitable for the way most of us work today. And why should it be? A 19th century joiner would recognize few of the tools and machines we use today. They have evolved to meet changing needs or were invented because of expanded technological possibilities. Since a bench is simply another tool, i.e. a clamping machine, why should it remain frozen in time?

Acknowledging three inescapable conclusions finally got me building:

• I use power tools as much or more as hand tools.
• I wanted an all-flat surface rather than a junk-collecting tool tray.
• Innovation has also produced more practical, stronger, and versatile vises than the wooden beauties associated with traditional benches.

Those truths finally crystallized in a plan combining the best of old and new, a derivative bench that suits my approach to woodworking. As a bonus, it was easy to build and didn't cost the earth, requiring about 20 pleasant hours in the shop and about $200 for materials. When completed, it also passed an important test—it calls to me to keep it uncluttered and to work on it.

The dimensions will depend on each builder's situation, especially height. Most experts recommend that the top be the distance from the floor to about the beginning of the wrist. However, unless hand tool use is the primary requirement, other objectives can trump that. In my case 70" x 26" x 35" high fits the available space and is ¼" lower than the height of my saw table. With a board clamped in the vise and supported on the bench assistant, it serves double duty as a sort of stationary sliding table for my Unisaw.
 

Whenever possible, I make from what I have, so the base of this bench is from a stock of a few hundred board feet of rough 5/4, kiln dried, hard maple purchased at a very good price several months ago. However, any reasonably dense wood will do, so if you need to buy, look for local bargains. You'll need 30 board feet for the base including a reasonable amount of waste. Not having thick enough stock, I used regular yellow glue to laminate the three layers required to make the 3" x 3" legs, and two layers for the 2" thick upper stretchers.

This bench is a large object that is necessarily strong and heavy to function properly, so I made it easy to disassemble should it ever have to be moved. The frame members go together with ³/8" x 6" bolts—except for the two lower I" thick stretchers where the four bolts are ⁵/16" x 6"—available from any hardware store (my all-in cost was $10.00).

A 1½" Forstner bit makes the holes to accommodate the fender washers and nyloc nuts, and if you have one, a mortising machine is an easy way to square one end of each hole (I removed the mortiser's vise to provide enough room for the wide boards). Alternatively, it's not difficult to square them off with a mallet and chisel, but either method requires a backer board or cutting in from each face to prevent tearout. A ¹/8" roundover bit smoothed the edges on both sides.
 

Before drilling the holes, I had marked center lines to the butt ends of the frames, and that made it easy to transfer the lines to the legs. I made a simple jig to ensure that the matching holes did match, and used a long brad point bit to drill both the legs and the frames.
 

It was a treat to assemble them and have everything line up.

I first assembled the end units and then added the two long top and bottom rails. A couple of pieces of 1" maple with square maple pads on each end were used to span the bottom of the legs to act as lower stretchers. The pads were cut to provide the correct final height, and simply screwed on to enable easy replacement in case any height change should become necessary. The extra holes in the first end unit in the photo (right) are for the rods and quick release arm of a Record vise clone.
 

I've never felt the need for a tail vise because I use the Veritas bench top system (left). However, since I had a couple of these vises sitting idle, I installed one “just in case”. I haven't yet drilled the ¾" holes for the Veritas bench top system since I'm still working out the ideal locations.
 

With the base complete, it was time to make the top. When I went into the garage to pick out enough maple to laminate the required 26 pieces, I spotted a sheet of 1" birch plywood I had earlier purchased on spec for $60. Suddenly, the prospect of laminating only two pieces of plywood seemed a lot more attractive. After cutting the sheet to size and choosing the face, I arranged about ten clamps on either side and a couple on each end of what would be the bottom sheet, quickly spread yellow glue on both surfaces, sandwiched them together, and tightened the clamps. I then flipped it over and drove in about a dozen 1½" screws down the center line.

With the clamps and screws removed the following day, the alignment of the two sheets was good but not perfect, so I jointed one edge, ripped the other parallel, and used my sled to square the two ends. You can see how the bench helps to support such awkward jobs.

When that was done, I edged the top with 1" of maple and had an excellent working surface. Even so, I have to admit it doesn't feel proper to me, so I'll be making the solid maple top one of these days.
 

A Record style vise is easy to mount, and doesn't require any overhang. Removing the cotter pin and washer on the end of the rods enables the jaws to be separated from each other (although I had to use a mallet to persuade them to part). If you have an overhang, skip the next step, otherwise, measure carefully and use the end plate to draw the holes on the rail. With a piece of scrap clamped on the backside to avoid tearout, drill them somewhat over-sized with a Forstner bit as per the photo of the end units above. You can then slip the rods through the holes, and with the required spacer in place, lag screw or bolt the rear assembly to the bench and reassemble the parts. However, a more elegant approach would be to mortise the rear jaw into the face of the top.
 

That said, my current choice for face vise is a Taiwanese clone of the renowned Emmert patternmaker's vise. Although massive with a lot of parts, and weighing more than 60 pounds, simply unscrewing the front jaw breaks it down into a couple of roughly equal pieces to make it much easier to handle. Installing it was far less daunting the second time around.
 

The rear jaw of the vise is mounted to the bench via a large hinged casting that requires a ³/8" deep mortise in the bench's top and front. I cut out a piece of scrap the size of the plate to make a template, clamped the half vise in position to mark its edges, and then replaced the vise with the template. A ¾" straight pattern bit in a router made short work of it, and I squared off the corners with an inexpensive hinge chisel. A small dovetail saw and some chisel work took care of the front mortise.
 

The next job was to undercut the top for the Emmert's short 4" diameter barrel. A tin can about the same diameter provided the arc, and some satisfying mallet and chisel work got rid of the waste quickly. The Emmert's industrial appearance and lack of gentility is balanced by its remarkable flexibility. Note the plies of the baltic birch top and the maple edging visible in this picture.
 

To complement the Emmert, I made a bench assistant from a piece of 6" wide maple and ripped a piece of 1" maple to make a French cleat with a 15° bevel.
 

With one piece screwed to the face of the upper front stretcher, and a short piece of its mate on the back of the assistant, a spacer block on the back near the bottom holds it vertical by resting against the lower stretcher. The ¾" holes accept a Veritas bench dog. When not needed, the assistant lifts off and stores out of the way on the end of the bench, hanging from another piece of the cleat.
 

The finish is a couple of coats of thinned poly as a sealer, sanded to 150, and followed by two coats of buffed Minwax.
 

Of course, all that lovely space under the bench is an invitation to storage. About 6-8 months ago, I stopped at a Lee Valley store, and purchased one box each of their stamped metal toolbox trays. For a variety of reasons they were never used for the original project in my wife's sewing room. However, when I came across them again the other day, I realized they would serve well under my bench. I like shallow drawers, because it's so much easier to see and find things.
 

The instruction sheet that comes with the drawers demonstrates that this is a clever system. Run thin saw cuts in the gables at 1¼" intervals, and you can switch the drawers around to your heart's content. Even better, since my three boxes consisted of five 1", five 2", and three 3" trays, they combined to fit exactly in four vertical rows.

Trust me, it works. As you can see in the detail above: four 1" drawers on the top row, four 2" drawers on the second row, the last 1" drawer over the last 2" drawer on the left of the bottom row, and the three 3" drawers to the right in the remaining three slots on the bottom row.

I used some of the 1" birch ply left over from the top for the uprights, and some scrap particle board faced with maple for the case. I set the case in place so that the faces of the drawer pulls were back just enough to provide clearance for the removable bench assistant.
 

I still have to make four or six wooden drawers to take up the remaining space, but at least I no longer suffer bench envy!

Workbench Plans Whether you're a weekend woodworker or a DIY handyman, we have a bench plan for you. Step-by-step plans designed by the editors of Woodsmith, ShopNotes, and Workbench magazines!

Weekend Bench		Woodsmith Bench		Heavy-Duty Bench		Custom Shop		Wall Workstation
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"A" Frame Chicken Coop

by Joe Bonnell

1. Q: What's a good approach to DIY Floor Tiling ?

A: See our step-by step floor tiling instructions below :

Step 1. It is recommended that floor tiling is set out from the middle of the floor so that any cuts are to the outside of the layout. Spread an area of adhesive with a solid-bed notched floor trowel and firmly press the first tile into the adhesive.

Step 2 When starting a new area of tiling it is important to check that the tile is correctly bedded into the adhesive without any voids. Use a trowel to lift the tile to check coverage.

Step 3 The adhesive must be evenly applied and in contact with the tile and base to assure longterm adhesion and performance. If necessary re-trowel the adhesive and replace the tile firmly into the adhesive bed.

Step 4 At the edge of the tiled area check the measurement to assess any irregularity in the wall and the cut required.

Step 5 Set the edge tile upside down and mark the cut on the reverse. This should then be transferred to the face before cutting. The cut edge is set to the room edge.

Step 6 Floor tiles should be cut using a tile cutter. After marking the measurement, scribe and break using the cutter.

Step 7 Awkward shapes to fit tiles round pipes and other room fittings should be cut using tile nippers. Irregularities in the cut can be smoothed off with a tile file. Protective goggles should be worn during cutting.

Step 8 When the adhesive is dry, usually within 24-hours, the floor can be grouted. Spread grout over the area working it well into the joints with a spreading tool. Clean off excess grout in accordance with the manufacturers instructions.

2. Q: How to do wall tiling ?

See our step-by step wall tiling instructions below :